Car restoration, from rust repair and wreck repair all the way to Concours d' Elegance award winning, complete restorations, is what I have been doing since 1969. Completely disassembling and reassembling of bodies has been performed by me many times. Wooden bodied cars as well as all metal cars are included in my list of accomplishment. Best of show awards, magazine articles and many best in class awards have been presented to owners of cars that I have had a large part in the restoration of.
Hot Rod building is something I find great satisfaction in. Unlike most, I make a big effort to maintain a "Theme" when building a car. In other words, if I'm building a 1950's style Hot Rod, it will be built with 1950's and prior parts. Naturally, those parts will be restored to top notch condition, because Resto RodsTo Go stands for Hot Rods that can be driven daily. One of the things that makes these cars so special is that they are "timeless" and will maintain their desirability through time, unlike the fad cars that are being built with the "off the shelf parts", that are obsolete next year.
Taking advantage of the work that those highly skilled designers that worked for GM, Ford, and Chrysler seems to make a lot more sense to me than using the machine shop designed billet steering wheels, etc and industrial gauges, that are usually used in Street Rod building.
If you set up your steering column properly, you don't need to install that tilt column, but rather use a cool early column and wheel that has real character, and not that Kubota tractor look.
I would much rather lift the hood to see an early Hemi or an early fuel injected 283 or dual quad 265 Chevy. Generic chrome becomes pretty bland when up against a tasteful paint scheme under the hood like the factory designers developed.
Showing posts with label Hot Rods. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Hot Rods. Show all posts
R-10 Borg Warner Overdrive Set Up
Enclosed drive line installation of the overdrive.
A few things to consider......
1. Build it so it can be removed from the rear section, in one piece. So the rear drive shaft should be set up with a seal at the flange and yoke/coupler that you can slide the rear shaft of the overdrive into. The coupler should be welded to the rear drive shaft.
2. You will need a breather vent on the top of the unit.
3. I highly recommend running full synthetic gear oil in the unit, as it generates a lot of heat. Standing alone, it has difficulty dissipating it.
4. When you have your speedometer cable made, make sure it is a sealed casing as fluid will run up the cable, some distance from the case.
5. I used a Packard shift control cable, and formed the mounting bracket to fit around my gear shift handle. It slides down on it for a compression fit. I also found a knob that matched pretty closely to my dash knobs. I had to have the shaft turned down to fit the mount/cable jacket, and compressed the end of the shaft to the cable wire again. I think the Packard cable was the longest that I could find. Length is an issue, so make sure you are setting the overdrive at the right distance from your control knob..... making sure you have necessary clearance in the area you are installing it as well.
A few things to consider......
1. Build it so it can be removed from the rear section, in one piece. So the rear drive shaft should be set up with a seal at the flange and yoke/coupler that you can slide the rear shaft of the overdrive into. The coupler should be welded to the rear drive shaft.
2. You will need a breather vent on the top of the unit.
3. I highly recommend running full synthetic gear oil in the unit, as it generates a lot of heat. Standing alone, it has difficulty dissipating it.
4. When you have your speedometer cable made, make sure it is a sealed casing as fluid will run up the cable, some distance from the case.
5. I used a Packard shift control cable, and formed the mounting bracket to fit around my gear shift handle. It slides down on it for a compression fit. I also found a knob that matched pretty closely to my dash knobs. I had to have the shaft turned down to fit the mount/cable jacket, and compressed the end of the shaft to the cable wire again. I think the Packard cable was the longest that I could find. Length is an issue, so make sure you are setting the overdrive at the right distance from your control knob..... making sure you have necessary clearance in the area you are installing it as well.
Hot Rod 235 Chevrolet Stove Bolt Six
Stromberg BXOV2 carburetors are the choice of discerning stove bolt six hotrodders. These planted on top of a vintage Edelbrock intake make for a responsive accelerator. I was able to round up this matching pair by diligently watching e-bay, and picking them off, one at a time. They were both NORS. It took me several months of watching every day but after removing the Carter W-1 carbs that I had been using, I realized a huge difference in accelerator response.
Yes it cut into my fuel economy but driving my 37 Chevy is not about economy anyway. It's about enjoyment.
The air cleaners on top are original AC air cleaners off 1940's vintage trucks. The elements are original fiber from the 1930's and are about as rare as hens teeth. I had a seller throw one in with a brass replacement that I won on e-bay and when I saw the freebie that he gave me, I knew I had to have another one. I just really liked the way the color went with the decal on top. It took me about 8 months of watching e-bay to come up with the second one and I soon found that several people wanted it real bad. I put a bid in at about $120 and actually won it for $77, if my memory serves me right. I have not seen another since that auction that I won about 4 years ago.
The split exhaust manifold is actually the original 1937, 216 manifold that came on my truck. I did the split on it and had a local welder stick it together with nickel alloy rod. I made some adapter rings for the intake to the head because I am running the 1960 235ci engine.
Yes it cut into my fuel economy but driving my 37 Chevy is not about economy anyway. It's about enjoyment.
The air cleaners on top are original AC air cleaners off 1940's vintage trucks. The elements are original fiber from the 1930's and are about as rare as hens teeth. I had a seller throw one in with a brass replacement that I won on e-bay and when I saw the freebie that he gave me, I knew I had to have another one. I just really liked the way the color went with the decal on top. It took me about 8 months of watching e-bay to come up with the second one and I soon found that several people wanted it real bad. I put a bid in at about $120 and actually won it for $77, if my memory serves me right. I have not seen another since that auction that I won about 4 years ago.
The split exhaust manifold is actually the original 1937, 216 manifold that came on my truck. I did the split on it and had a local welder stick it together with nickel alloy rod. I made some adapter rings for the intake to the head because I am running the 1960 235ci engine.
Traditional Hot Rod Tail Lights Nite Owls
Traditional hot rods are in a class of their own. Modern, off the shelf parts have now place in the building of traditional hot rods. Making use of the parts that were available in the wrecking yards and what was on the shelf in the 1940's and 1950's is what it's all about. Naturally, picking the "cool parts" and making use of them was what the discerning hot rod builder did and still does today.
Sure there was the "follow the leader" attitude then to a certain extent just as there is today. There wasn't as many aftermarket/engineered parts available then though, so you had to do a little thinking on your own.
One of the subtle but really cool and functional additions you could do to your ride, is add the "Nite Owl" tail lights. They are actually visible from the side. This was the idea of the design in making them dome shaped. Later, car makers actually started using separate lights, called "side marker" lights.
You won't likely be able to just go out and get some of these, but that's all part of what makes your car special. Those hard to find vintage parts. Yes it takes a tremendous amount of time to round up all the stuff to make a car like the 1936 Ford Hot Rod that these lights are on. All the specialty things on this car sets it so far apart from the crowd, it's literally incomprehensible to the average car builder.
You can also see some professional photos of this car in Rod and Custom feature Gentleman's Hot Rod. The writer's mention of the 21st century seat belts is incorrect. The belts are 1950's belts.
Sure there was the "follow the leader" attitude then to a certain extent just as there is today. There wasn't as many aftermarket/engineered parts available then though, so you had to do a little thinking on your own.
One of the subtle but really cool and functional additions you could do to your ride, is add the "Nite Owl" tail lights. They are actually visible from the side. This was the idea of the design in making them dome shaped. Later, car makers actually started using separate lights, called "side marker" lights.
You won't likely be able to just go out and get some of these, but that's all part of what makes your car special. Those hard to find vintage parts. Yes it takes a tremendous amount of time to round up all the stuff to make a car like the 1936 Ford Hot Rod that these lights are on. All the specialty things on this car sets it so far apart from the crowd, it's literally incomprehensible to the average car builder.
You can also see some professional photos of this car in Rod and Custom feature Gentleman's Hot Rod. The writer's mention of the 21st century seat belts is incorrect. The belts are 1950's belts.
Hotrodarama 2010 My pick for Best of Show 1932 Ford Coupe
An inline six is not what you would normally expect to see in a 1932 Ford Coupe hot rod. Probably the number one choice would be a flat head v-8.
The Chevrolet 261 bored to 278 and sporting the extremely rare 12 port Wayne head is what makes this such a refreshing work of art. On top of the 5 carb mainifold you will see 5 very rare large logo Stromberg 81 carbs. These were the carbs that came on the little V-8 60 flatty.
It is using a Spalding cam for opening passage through the 12 ports in the Wayne head, that holds the 12.5-1 compression of combustable and allows passage of waste. This little inline six pumps out some healthy ponies.
I personally think you'd be hard pressed to find a Ford flathead that could keep up with this Wayne powered vintage style hot rod.
The Joe Hunt Scintilla magneto does the job of turning the vintage 1940's early 50's Stewert Warner mechanical tachometer, as well as starting the fires in the cylinders.
At the rear is a much desired Halibrand Culver City V-8 Quickchange.
1940 Lincoln brakes for stopping,Okie Adams dropped axle and 49 Ford F-1 steering box, with a 1937 Lincoln Zephry steering wheel keep this hot rod going down the road in a controlled fashion.
The 1932 Auburn dash ads a little finishing touch to the interior.
Yes, the wheels are real halibrand mags and knock offs. They are 16x5 and 16x6.
Keeping to a theme seems to be quite a difficult task for car builders. It seems that some things always have to be made better than the period offered. Pat and the builder did a much better job than most on this one.
I sincerely feel this was by far the best example of a vintage style hot rot at the 2010 Hotrod-A-Rama. My hat is off to Pat, Butch and the others involved in this work of art.
The Chevrolet 261 bored to 278 and sporting the extremely rare 12 port Wayne head is what makes this such a refreshing work of art. On top of the 5 carb mainifold you will see 5 very rare large logo Stromberg 81 carbs. These were the carbs that came on the little V-8 60 flatty.
It is using a Spalding cam for opening passage through the 12 ports in the Wayne head, that holds the 12.5-1 compression of combustable and allows passage of waste. This little inline six pumps out some healthy ponies.
I personally think you'd be hard pressed to find a Ford flathead that could keep up with this Wayne powered vintage style hot rod.
The Joe Hunt Scintilla magneto does the job of turning the vintage 1940's early 50's Stewert Warner mechanical tachometer, as well as starting the fires in the cylinders.
At the rear is a much desired Halibrand Culver City V-8 Quickchange.
1940 Lincoln brakes for stopping,Okie Adams dropped axle and 49 Ford F-1 steering box, with a 1937 Lincoln Zephry steering wheel keep this hot rod going down the road in a controlled fashion.
The 1932 Auburn dash ads a little finishing touch to the interior.
Yes, the wheels are real halibrand mags and knock offs. They are 16x5 and 16x6.
Keeping to a theme seems to be quite a difficult task for car builders. It seems that some things always have to be made better than the period offered. Pat and the builder did a much better job than most on this one.
I sincerely feel this was by far the best example of a vintage style hot rot at the 2010 Hotrod-A-Rama. My hat is off to Pat, Butch and the others involved in this work of art.
Columbia Two Speed Rear End 1936 with 1946 Ford Electric Vacuum Controls
1936 Ford had a manual vacuum Columbia Two Speed rear end but in 1946, the Columbia Two Speed Axle was controlled by an electric solenoid vacuum switch. The Columbia Two Speed Rear End gave the Flathead Fords in the 1930's and 1940's nearly a one third taller gear ratio to the tire.
In the 1936 Ford Cabriolet that I built into a 1958 style hot rod, I used a combination of systems to accomplish my goal. I wanted to give my client a nice operating, period correct Columbia Two Speed in the rear end of the 1957 Fuel Injected Corvette 283 powered, 1936 Ford.
I equipped the hot rod with a 1940 Ford Dash and used a cigar lighter housing and an original style 1940 Ford choke knob with the flat rod. I made a round piece that fit into the lighter housing and put a slot in it and in the end of the housing so that the flat rod would slide with some sort of stability. I fastened a three position toggle switch on an L shaped bracket on the back end of the lighter housing and drilled a hole in the slide rod of the choke knob in the correct position so that the toggle switch fit into the hole. Now what looks like a choke knob is actually a three position neutral return switch. The C for choke now is C for Columbia.
By pushing the, now Columbia switch in, it completes a circuit and likewise when you pull it out. It springs back to center, or to the neutral position.
The Columbia Two Speed Rear End should not be shifted, unless the clutch is all the way in. I took a brake light switch apart and reversed the contact points so that when it is depressed, it completes a circuit instead of completing the circuit when it is released as original operation. I mounted that switch on the frame so that the 1939 Ford Clutch pedal arm would activate the switch and complete the circuit when completely depressed.
I reduced the voltage from 12 to 6 volts for the electromagnetic solenoids for the 1946 Ford Columbia Two Speed vacuum shift control.
Now I had all the components to make the system complete. One more thing I did though is route the power through period correct 12 volt Delco relays which are switched by the original NOS Hurd keyed ignition switch and again with the tweaked brake light switch and the three position toggle switch.
I almost forgot one more detail. The electromagnetic solenoid-vacuum switch that sends the vacuum to the rear to make the actual shift, also shifts a little speedometer cable, two speed transmission so that the speedometer reads correctly when you shift from low to high and back, automatically.
I added a picture of the other switches. One is to switch the 1950's electric fuel pump and the others are dash lights and cigar lighter. Notice the original 1940 heater switch on the underside of the dash and the 8 ball that controls the original NOS Yoder Wolf Whistle. All the knobs have original 36 bezels with a custom stainless ring in the middle.
In the 1936 Ford Cabriolet that I built into a 1958 style hot rod, I used a combination of systems to accomplish my goal. I wanted to give my client a nice operating, period correct Columbia Two Speed in the rear end of the 1957 Fuel Injected Corvette 283 powered, 1936 Ford.
I equipped the hot rod with a 1940 Ford Dash and used a cigar lighter housing and an original style 1940 Ford choke knob with the flat rod. I made a round piece that fit into the lighter housing and put a slot in it and in the end of the housing so that the flat rod would slide with some sort of stability. I fastened a three position toggle switch on an L shaped bracket on the back end of the lighter housing and drilled a hole in the slide rod of the choke knob in the correct position so that the toggle switch fit into the hole. Now what looks like a choke knob is actually a three position neutral return switch. The C for choke now is C for Columbia.
By pushing the, now Columbia switch in, it completes a circuit and likewise when you pull it out. It springs back to center, or to the neutral position.
The Columbia Two Speed Rear End should not be shifted, unless the clutch is all the way in. I took a brake light switch apart and reversed the contact points so that when it is depressed, it completes a circuit instead of completing the circuit when it is released as original operation. I mounted that switch on the frame so that the 1939 Ford Clutch pedal arm would activate the switch and complete the circuit when completely depressed.
I reduced the voltage from 12 to 6 volts for the electromagnetic solenoids for the 1946 Ford Columbia Two Speed vacuum shift control.
Now I had all the components to make the system complete. One more thing I did though is route the power through period correct 12 volt Delco relays which are switched by the original NOS Hurd keyed ignition switch and again with the tweaked brake light switch and the three position toggle switch.
I almost forgot one more detail. The electromagnetic solenoid-vacuum switch that sends the vacuum to the rear to make the actual shift, also shifts a little speedometer cable, two speed transmission so that the speedometer reads correctly when you shift from low to high and back, automatically.
I added a picture of the other switches. One is to switch the 1950's electric fuel pump and the others are dash lights and cigar lighter. Notice the original 1940 heater switch on the underside of the dash and the 8 ball that controls the original NOS Yoder Wolf Whistle. All the knobs have original 36 bezels with a custom stainless ring in the middle.
Hot Rod Custom 1930's Arvin Hot Water Heater.
I didn't like the thought of punching holes through the firewall as is done usually with an accessory heater like this. In doing that, the water hoses run from the firewall to the water pump in the front of the 1957 Corvette engine. It's rather unsightly and distracting when you have heater hoses running along side a beautiful vintage Fuel Injected 283 in a 1936 Ford like this.
Instead, I routed the lines down, and made up hard copper lines inside the frame rails, then came straight up to the water pump and water neck on the front of the engine.
In order to avoid bolting through the firewall, I had to make a bolt plate, and welded it to the inside of the firewall.
It sure made a clean installation of the Arvin heater.
Instead, I routed the lines down, and made up hard copper lines inside the frame rails, then came straight up to the water pump and water neck on the front of the engine.
In order to avoid bolting through the firewall, I had to make a bolt plate, and welded it to the inside of the firewall.
It sure made a clean installation of the Arvin heater.
Hot Rod Building and Customizing
Hot rods are built to many different standards.
Some Hot Rods are set to a strict theme, having every little detail dialed in to a specific time period as in the 1950's or 1960's. This would be a pure Resto Rod. These Resto Rods are timeless, being like a part of history, they don't lose their appeal.
Some hot rods are just put together with whatever is available off the shelf. Some make use of all the latest hoopla parts that are advertised in the magazines. Those modern street rods are sometimes very expensive. Next year, they're obsolete cause there's new stuff out at that point.
I just have a hard time with the industrial look of the new gauges, steering wheels, shifters, and especially the wheels that are popular now. I like to use the example of "put some of those 21 inch low profile wheel/tire combinations on a Model T". How's that look? Yes it's an extreme, but the concept is still the same. They just don't work on older cars. Period.... The upholstery almost always doesn't fit the design character of the original car either. Loose the door handles and you've lost another major design component. Chrome bumpers.... On and on.
The designers of the 1930's cars especially, were doing their jobs very well, in my opinion. I personally like to take advantage of all of the fabulous design work that coordinates with the theme and the original design of the car. Occasionally, it is possible to improve on original design, but not being a designer myself, or even having any degree in art for that matter, I feel a need to be very careful when it comes to customizing cars. When I do customize cars, I want the changes to be invisible, or look like they haven't been modified at all. If it looks like it hasn't been customized, whether it is a big modification or small, it has been a success!
Some Hot Rods are set to a strict theme, having every little detail dialed in to a specific time period as in the 1950's or 1960's. This would be a pure Resto Rod. These Resto Rods are timeless, being like a part of history, they don't lose their appeal.
Some hot rods are just put together with whatever is available off the shelf. Some make use of all the latest hoopla parts that are advertised in the magazines. Those modern street rods are sometimes very expensive. Next year, they're obsolete cause there's new stuff out at that point.
I just have a hard time with the industrial look of the new gauges, steering wheels, shifters, and especially the wheels that are popular now. I like to use the example of "put some of those 21 inch low profile wheel/tire combinations on a Model T". How's that look? Yes it's an extreme, but the concept is still the same. They just don't work on older cars. Period.... The upholstery almost always doesn't fit the design character of the original car either. Loose the door handles and you've lost another major design component. Chrome bumpers.... On and on.
The designers of the 1930's cars especially, were doing their jobs very well, in my opinion. I personally like to take advantage of all of the fabulous design work that coordinates with the theme and the original design of the car. Occasionally, it is possible to improve on original design, but not being a designer myself, or even having any degree in art for that matter, I feel a need to be very careful when it comes to customizing cars. When I do customize cars, I want the changes to be invisible, or look like they haven't been modified at all. If it looks like it hasn't been customized, whether it is a big modification or small, it has been a success!
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