Guide 6004 Turn Signal Switch For Sale NOS and Restored Guide 6004 Yankee Dietz US Pioneer

Guide 6004 Turn Signal Switches are among my favorite and one of the models that I have been restoring for over 15 years.

I only do turn signal switches that appeal to me,  which are all made of "Die Cast metal".  They are all "7 wire" units and they are all "Self Canceling"

Because the mounting brackets, and clamps are frequently lost,  I have made hammer forms to recreate those missing pieces.

If you have a discerning taste for quality on your Classic or Collector Car,  then here is your opportunity to keep your car looking good and functioning comfortably.

I usually have a selection of switches for sale that have been gone through thoroughly and most have been repainted unless the original paint is in good shape.

If you have been so lucky to come upon a good one on eBay or elsewhere,  I can restore your switch.
I have picked up a lot of switches like that, but I'm finding it harder to get a reasonable deal on a core like that anymore. There are probably a lot of those switches laying in "Dream State" now.

Here are some examples of my painstakingly restored switches, and some cores that I have available at the time of this posting.  Again,  these are the Vintage Turn Signal Switches that I restore. Guide 6004  Dietz 6004  B-L-C 6004  US Pioneer  Yankee

Rubber wheel self canceling,  7 wire,  Die Cast Metal  Vintage Turn Signal Switches

1937 Chevrolet Pickup Truck Tail Lamp Light Lenses NOS OEM For Sale Genuine GM 37 Chevy Truck Parts for sale

January 2019 
For Sale

I have a few 1937 Chevrolet Truck parts for sale as well as some 1941 1946 parts.

NOS OEM Chevlite Stimsonite original 1937 1938 1939 Chevrolet truck tail lamp lenses with bezels.
These are in near mint condition.  $75 each or $140 for a pair.

1939 1949 1941 1942 NOS Guide 5-3/4 inch fog lamp in beautiful condition. It works perfectly and the silver reflector is in great condition. This is a rare light. GM $140

Original OEM Genuine 1937 1938 front license mounting bracket. This bracket is in very nice condition.  This came off an extremely nice low mileage pickup. I never ran a front plate and just came across this bracket.  NO PICTURE RIGHT NOW but I can send one if interested.

VERY NICE original OEM GENUINE bumper. This fits the 37 Pickup Truck and I believe 1937 Standard Car. The bumper is very straight and no rust pitting. It still has all the original detail on the back side because it has never been re-plated. I'll try to add pictures later, or I can send pictures. You won't find a nicer bumper.........

Rear bumper braces for the rear of the 1937 Chevrolet Pickup Truck. Very Nice Condition. This is the two pieces that attach to the face bar. It doesn't include the parts that attach to the frame.

1937 1938 1939 1940 1941 1942 1946 Chevrolet Pickup Truck Right Door Window Regulator.  Original and in near mint condition. This is very nice and operates smoothly...

1931 Ford Victoria Restoration

This 1931 Ford Model A Victoria is a very nice example, in it's original color scheme.

As you can see by the reflections in the pictures,  everything lines up nicely.  Some of the details that you will seldom see on a restored Model A, I was able to preserve.  It takes a bit of perseverance and attention to retain some of the details that I saved,  like the bead roller tracks in the front fender beads,  and the patent numbers on the bottom sides of the running boards,  and the wrinkles in the original sheet metal stamping that are still visible in the firewall.

To me,  these kinds of details really set one car apart from the rest.  


Original Outer Patina, Restored 1954 Chevrolet Pickup Truck

1954 Chevrolet Half Ton Pickup Truck Original Patina Restored.

This restoration project was an unusual but fun project.  
At first glance,  you'll think  "Rat Rod",  but this is not what you might think.

We restored everything to like new condition,  with the exception of the outer surface.  I did have to do a lot of massaging,  and metal finishing, with a follow up of controlled rust etc. in order to make it blend with the aging of the rest of the outer body.

The finished product was a real hit,  when it was displayed at it's first showing,  capturing the "Best Chevy" award.

1914 Cadillac fender reconstruction

This 1914 Cadillac is a very nice example of a well preserved piece of history.

Not surprising though, it did have a small amount of rust problems. I had to make a few pieces for the front fenders, fit them into place.

1956 Jaguar XK140 Roadster Project

The Jaguar XK140 Roadster, in my opinion is the sexiest one the the Jaguar fleet.

This particular example has only about 35,000 original miles on it. The previous owner was not good at keeping it on the road, so it was a bit of a challenge getting it looking the way it does now.

I'm pretty confident that it will stand up to in depth critiquing now that we have got a smooth finish of black on the body.

We are waiting for the owner, who is having the chassis finished. Once we get the chassis back, we can set the body back down on it and get all the sheet metal bolted and fit back into place again. Fitting of all the panels has been done numerous times throughout the process of body restoration. (I just wanted to mention that to those who don't understand the proper process.)

I had to make the rear section of the body, up about 12 inches from the back/bottom. Also a large portion of the left front fender, behind the wheel. I think I got about 5 pounds of lead out of that LF fender, around the side vent area.


Jaguar XK140 Roadster Body Restoration

The Jaguar XK140 Roadster, in my opinion is possibly the sexiest car in the Jaguar line up.

I have the privilege of doing a full body restoration on one that has only about 32,000 miles on it, and the metal is without any corrosion to speak of.

There is a lot of challenging metal work to do on the car, but this one will be without a doubt, one of the finest examples, when finished.

We acquired a new door from Jaguar By Jorge, for about $2200.00. The first example was made from .040 aluminum and the welding was hideous. The skin also had a big hollow that was sunk in about 1/2 inch in the middle. I didn't even check the door for the fit because it was so ugly that it was not fit to use on a quality restoration.

The second door we got from Jorge was a lot better and didn't have the big glob welds like the first example did, but rather, the skin was dimpled at the edge as it was done originally when these cars were built. It was also made from .020 as was original.

I will have to shrink the skin as it is bulged out quite a bit, and I have had to reshape the ends of the inner shell panels, as well as remove the top inner so that I could trim about 1/4 inch off the wood in order to allow the panel to be riveted to the upper part of the skin as original. They actually installed two channels up against the inner side of the skin, and tried to glue them with epoxy. This kind of thing does not work on a panel like this because if it is actually glued to the outer panel it will cause uneven expansion with temperature change as would be the case with the car in the sunshine. A severe distortion issue would be the result.

Fortunately, they welded very little of the door compared to the original, therefore I was able to completely disassemble the door by just drilling out rivets. I did have to cut the welds loose on the ends of those channels that were installed and cut in two, one that was integrated with the hinge nut panel that they made. This panel did not have the gusset braces like the original.

I am using a lot of the original shell components and discarding a good portion of the $2200.00 door. The parts of that door that I am using are all being reshaped to make them functional.

I purchased a rear body panel from Jorge as well. It was unusable, and I returned it and was charged a large restocking fee for that piece of junk.

He claims that his parts are "fine for most people" and that I am just one in a million. I feel that a car of this caliber especially, should be restored to a level much higher than a typical ammeter would do in his back yard.

I guess I just don't do the type of work that is "fine for most people", as he put it.

You can tell I am very disappointed, to say the least. Enough ranting now...

Let's look at some detail of the project.

Discard pile from the new door.

Thickness variation had to be corrected.

Plywood was more than 1/4 inch too high.

Here it is after the clean up and reshaped ends.

The original will be cleaned, painted and installed in the new door.

Now the panel has the proper bracing, bolt spacing etc.

Some of the new and some of the original parts to be used.

The door is now back together and the skin is shrunk down flat enough to surface it properly. It was bulged out about a quarter of an inch. I used four of the original door pieces to make this door usable. Shrinking a .020 aluminum door skin is a two man job. You can't possibly set the torch down and hammer it before the heat dissipates, trying to do it alone. You only have about three seconds to shrink, once you have heated a spot with the torch.

I have the metal work pretty much done on the doors now and remaking a portion of the left front fender to match the front of the new door and to eliminate an old repair that contained three or four pounds of lead.